You will receive your first newsletter within 1-2 weeks. Thank you for choosing to sign up for AutohausAZ newsletter. ![]() If you have any questions or concerns, please contact our Customer Service. Scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see an unsubscribe link. ![]() If you wish to unsubscribe from our newsletter at any time, open one of our newsletter emails, If you are a new customer and this is your first time signing up for the newsletter, please check your email for your coupon code. , scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see an unsubscribe link. If you wish to unsubscribe from our newsletter at any time, open one of our newsletter emails Before I spend $200 throwing another part at the car, does anyone have other suggestions? I think my second option would be to follow Red Gray's advice and either obtain an oscilloscope to read the data or find someone who has the equipment and can do it for me.You will receive your first newsletter within 1-2 weeks. It looks like my next step may be to replace the alternator with a rebuilt unit. He did tell me the voltage regulator was OK. The Advance Auto test machine is capable of printing out data, but the technician didn't know how to do it. I had it retested at an Advance Auto and they said it failed. I replaced the voltage regulator on it because the brushes were worn. I had previously had the alternator tested at a rebuild shop on a somewhat primitive looking machine. However, I have not used an oscilloscope as Red Gray suggested to read the data. As noted in previous posts, the data line to the ECU has continuity. When I connect the STAR tool, it displays the same fault code as it did before I replaced the cable - 2062-02-Alternator Serial Interface - No connection to the control module. When I display the voltage on the center information screen with the car running it shows 12.1 volts instead of the 14-14.2 volts it would display before I damaged the system. Unfortunately, I still have the alternator-battery warning light. To make a long story short, I now have power to the alternator. In addition to the dampener, I had to disconnect the steering linkage and move a refrigerant line. I saw some people claim that they did not need to remove the supercharger dampener to access the bolt holding the cable on the end of the starter. If I have to replace the starter, I will need to buy a ratchet with a more compact head or use a combination of a swivel and extensions to access it. I did not remove the starter because I couldn't remove one of the bolts holding it in place due to the size of the head of my ratchet. It may be easier to route the cable if you remove the starter. Look at the routing of the cable as you remove it, and you will see how to do it. The cable has to fit between the starter and the engine block or the cable end will block the reinstallation of the supercharger dampener. (If anyone else ever needs to do this, here's a link to the the instructions: Starter Replacement - M271 ) There are also videos on YouTube. I installed the new battery/starter/alternator cable. I've also posted photos showing the data connector and the battery connector to the alternator and the voltage regulator that I removed. ![]() Screen display during alternator test attempt It is possible to switch over between the systems with the key combinations ALT + TAB." I'm not sure whether doing that will allow the test to run, but I will give it a try later. If you pause it at about the half-way point you should see a message that says, "DAS and WIS are active at the same time. It may be a Chinese clone.) I've posted a video showing what happens when I attempt to use the alternator diagnosis menu. (Jake and I bought the system used and I don't know much about its origins. ![]() When I ran the STAR system, there were menu choices for alternator testing, but they would not run on my system. I connected the STAR system and it read the same fault code I posted previously - 2062-002 - Alternator serial interface. I checked the voltage at the alternator with the car running and it was negligible - approximately 0.4 volts. I replaced it, but it did not fix the problem. Since my last update I decided to take a chance and see whether the voltage regulator was damaged. I'm not quite ready to buy an oscilloscope, but I'm beginning to think it may be necessary.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |